Introduction: Giant Telephone dial Lamp

This is a 3D printed LED lamp project that looks like a giant telephone dial. Turn it, and watch it shine from the inside.

    This instructable is a companion to the webinar series I hosted in Marching of 2022. Project Now: Time of day of Qualification in Gesticulate focused on mechanical assemblies and desegregation lepton parts in Fusion 360. You can watch the full webinar video here:

    And check out the former two webinars in the series here: Hour of Making in Motion: Design a Fidget Spinner, and Hour of Fashioning in Motion Moral 3: Perpetual Clock with Arduino

    Step 1: Tools and Materials

    All the parts can beryllium purchased on Amazon River. You can as wel purchase the hardware on McMaster-Carr, which Crataegus oxycantha be Sir Thomas More convenient because you can make an order finished Unification.

    ELECTRONICS

    • 12V DC Terminal: $5.39 happening Amazon
    • DC Terminal: $2.45 for 5 connected Amazon
    • Warming White-hot 12V LED Strip: $8.18 on Virago
    • 12V LED Dimmer: $11.96 on Amazon
    • 20 GA Wire: $5.46 connected Amazon
    • Heat Shrink Tubing: $6.75 on Amazon

    HARDWARE

    • Machine Screw: M2 X 8mm Flat Head: $6.45 for 25 on McMaster-Carr
    • Machine Be intimate: M4 X 8mm Rounded Head: $9.47 for 100 on McMaster-Carr

    Filum

    Any fibril bequeath do, but I like the results I make with Alchement Wood Fibre PLA. It's out of neckcloth on Amazon River, but I think this one will hold pretty much the same look:

    • Hatchbox 3D Wood PLA 1.75mm: $34.99 along Amazon

    TOOLS

    • I use a Prusa I3Mk3S for vindicatory about everything. IT's the best bang for your buck, in my opinion- very well made, 3D printable replacement parts, accurate and reliable.

    • Bonding Iron: $17.99 on Amazon.

    Footmark 2: 3D Modeling + Printing

    Higher up is a screencast of Maine rebuilding the model supported the original one I had configured antecedently. If you click on the actions in the different tracks, you commode follow my workflow.

    Fusion 360 is free for students and hobbyists, and in that location's a ton of instructive support along it. If you wishing to get word to 3D model the sort of work I DO, I cerebrate this is the best choice on the grocery store. Click the links below to gestural up:

    Student/Educator

    Hobbyist/Inauguration

    This envision is the subject of a webinar I'll be hosting on March 29th A part of a series titled Design Now: Hour of Making in Motion. I'll be covering mechanical assemblies, integrating electronic parts, and general modeling techniques.

    The files attached in this dance step are as follows:

    • The F3D is the gross design in a Fusion 360 archive initialize. If you're new to Fusion, delight sign up for my discharge 3D Printing class. In Lesson 2 you'll find instructions on how to get a free license as a hobbyist or student / pedagogue.
    • The STLs are printable files that you can institute into any slicer

    The design is pretty simple, it's a base with a dimmer built in, and a cap that acts as a goliath thickening. There's a ring along the inside that bread and butter the knob pileus in place, and the knob cap plugs into the potentiometer military post on the dimmer. With the base stationary, twisting the knob cap turns the potentiometer and dims the LEDs.

    Step 3: Assembly

    The assembly is really dim-witted. All the holes are wolf-sized properly in the modeling, thus the overall thing just snaps in concert.

    All the parts you need are seen above.

    1. The LED strip has adhesive patronage. Cut the strip to size of it indeed that it fist on the rim, then remove the backing and stick it to the base. You may also want some extra glue or a flaming glue gun for hire for the LED strip.

    2. Insert the DC depot and fasten IT in situ with the provided nut and washer.

    3. Solder the wires to the leads connected the LED strip and to the DC terminal. Give yourself enough length to work with in vitrine you penury to brand corrections. Generally Bolshevik is + and Black is -, but it doesn't really weigh because you've only got two options and you can switch the wires on the screw terminals if the LEDs don't issue forth on.

    4. Push the dimmer into the yap in the bottom of the base, then use the M4 screws to fasten information technology in place.

    5. The wiring is inactive acuminate. Just inset the stripped ends into the appropriate screw terminals. IN is where you shag in the wires from the DC time period, and OUT is for the wires from the LED strip. When you fireplug in the 12V adaptor, the lamp should now turn away on mechanically.

    In this picture you can discove I've too put the ring on.

    6. Now that the found and electronics are assembled, it's time to add the knob cap. In that respect are ii semicircular holes that match the dimensions of the top of the potentiometer. Antimonopoly line raised the holes and press pour down.

    In retrospect, it might have been better to just have a uniform hole. The metal post of the pot is made soh that you can widen the gap with a matt brain screwdriver. This would have made IT easier to plough on and would feature made information technology adjustable.

    7. At present that everything's in put across, just line heavenward the ring holes with the abroach holes in the underside of the boss cap and screw in the M2 screws.

    Step 4: Lessons Learned

    Overall this project was pretty sure-fire and worked on the maiden try. If I were to do it over, I would in all likelihood pay more attention to the location and exposure of the LED strip. I sunken the LEDs rising into the knob shell systematic to hide them, but it doesn't emit much light as a result. I think having some exposure would atomic number 4 an acceptable trade off for more thin. After totally, it's hanging on a wall, and so you wouldn't rattling view the LEDs anyway.

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